Introduction

 Over the past few years, Caithness waves have dragged surfers hundreds of miles, sometimes only for weekends, to enjoy big fast powerful waves in the beautiful settings of Thurso Bay, Dunnet Bay, Freswick Bay, Sandside Bay, Bettyhill and many other prime spots. Surfers from all over Britain, Ireland, France, Spain, Portugal, Holland, America, Australia, New Zealand and South Africa have sampled the waves and run out of superlatives with which to describe them - "classic, superb, epic, unreal, beaut" are just a few examples.

 All the beaches can be surfed all year round, if you can handle the cold which intensifies in March/April, but the swells can be breaking at 20 ft. Plus. The Winter water temperature varies between 4 - 70C In the summer, the waves are smaller but the water is warmer (temperature 13 - 160C), leading into September/October when the waves start to pick up and the water is still warm from the summer. The most consistent "breaks" are on the north coast, starting with Dunnet Bay, Thurso Bay (with three separate breaks), Brims Ness, Sandside Bay, Melvich Bay, then into Sutherland with Strathy, Armadale, Farr, Torrisdale Bay, all within easy reach (25 miles) of Thurso. Thurso East, opposite the Castle is the "mecca" with long, fast walls peeling toward the river mouth. At certain times of the tide, the surfer can find solitude inside the most sought after of refuges, "the tube". 

The Scottish Surfing Federation staged the 1981 Eurosurf in the Thurso area and this event put Caithness on the British surfing map. Since 1984, the Scottish Canoe Association (SCA) has held their National Surfing Championships in Caithness. The SCA has made Caithness the home for major competitions, as the surf has proved so reliable around Caithness. In September 1987, the SCA hosted the Home International Championships and the European Wave Ski Championships. In 1991 the World Kayak Championship were held in Thurso and the competition returns to Caithness in 1997.

If you have not used or come across these maps before. Information on how to read these maps is contained in a flysheet at the right hand edge of the sheet at the bottom corner

Location: 28 miles east of Thurso. OS map 12; grid reference 345555

Location: 6 miles east of Thurso. OS map 12; grid reference 210690

Directions: Take the A836 from Thurso to John O Groats. After the village of Castletown (5 miles from Thurso) the road meets the beach. Parking is available here on the left for the south end of the beach. Alternatively for the north end of the beach carry on for about 2 miles immediately after the caravan site, parking is available on the left. For the Point of Ness carry on the A836 to the village of Dunnet, turning off on the left to Dunnet Head. Carry straight (not to Dunnet Head) to the pier at Dwarick where there is ample parking.

Break(s): Faces between west and north-west. Three mile beach with sandbars and a river in the middle. Any size west-north-west swell or a big north swell is required.

The Beach: Average sandbars along the provide beach breaks. Watch for a rip caused by the stream in the centre of the beach.

The Point of Ness: A long excellent right-hand point break on the north side of Dunnet Bay near Dwarick pier. Best at high tide

Location: 4 miles west of Thurso. OS map 12; grid reference 172698

Directions: Follow the A836 from Thurso to John O Groats. Just after the village of Murkle take the left hand track down to the break.

Break Faces north east. Good left hander off "the spur" into the bay if there is a strong westerly swell. Best at mid tide

Location: Thurso, opposite Thurso Castle OS map 12; grid reference 125691.

Directions: Car parking available at Thurso harbour. Launch from the slipway at the river mouth. Alternatively take the A836 to John O Groats and take the first turning to the left (Sir Archibald Road) and follow the road along the side of the river. At the end there is a large space for parking at the side of the river.

Break: Faces north-west. The best break in the area. Long tubes break over a kelp covered reef. A slowish take off and long barrel subsides into a fast smaller inside section. Good fast rights at any stage of tide but best on the incoming tide (low to 3/4 tide). Works on an average to huge north-west swell. Easy paddle-out to the left of the break. Tube rides are sometimes the only way of taking the larger waves. This wave is not recommended for beginners as it is fast, rocky and a rip exists.

Thurso Reef (the "shit pipe" or "pipeline")

Location: Thurso, just off the breakwater at Thurso harbour. OS map 12; grid reference 120690.

Directions: Car parking available at Thurso harbour. Launch from the slipway at the river mouth or from the beach.

Break: A North facing reef. A good peak with left and right hand waves, both good shape. Works on a slightly bigger swell than Thurso East. Again not a wave for the beginner as it breaks over boulders. The break is best from low to medium tide. It’s called the "shit pipe" for obvious reasons.

Location: Thurso, just West of Thurso Reef. OS map 12; grid reference 115687. Directions: Car parking space is usually available close to the beach, but that at Thurso harbour is recommended. Launch from the beach.

Break: Faces north. Good lefts off the rocks on the left hand side of the bay and sandbars along the beach. Excellent for the beginner but needs a bigger than average swell before it starts to get over 2 ft. Surf normally works well between low and three quarter tide. Watch for the strong under tow at high tide.

Location: 3 miles west of Thurso. OS map 12; grid reference 040714.

Directions: Follow the A836 West from Thurso. Turn right beside a small house and follow the road to the end at a farmyard. Car parking is very limited. Please respect the farm property and park with consideration.

Break(s): Brims Ness is Nordic for surf point. There always appears to be surf here. When seen from the road the size can be misleading! The point faces north-west to north-east, BRIMS NESS works on any swell so it is a popular summer wave when the swell is small. Not recommended for novices or faint hearted as all the waves break on rocks and there is strong rip current. Wipe outs can be serious here. There are three breaks, starting from the west side:

The bowl: as the name suggests a bowly right breaking in shallow water. The swell comes out of deep water fast before unloading on the reef. A short very fast right, breaking in very shallow water. Best on mid to high tide.

The cove: similar to the bowl, another short right, but not quite so shallow or fast. Best at low tide.

The left: a classic left hand point break. Breaks into deeper water and can be a very long ride (100m) if there is at least an average swell. This is a low tide wave breaking over a shallow rock ledge.

Location: 12 miles west of Thurso. OS map 11; grid reference 960655

Directions: Take the A836 West from Thurso. At the village of Reay go past the golf course and turn right to beach/harbour. Parking is available at the toilets or at the end of the road near the harbour.

Break: Faces north. This is a classic beach/reef set-up. The beach has good left and right sandbars that work best towards low tide. There is an excellent reef left between the harbour and the beach. This is a long wave but rocky. This works on an average northerly swell or a big westerly swell and is best at mid to high tide. This break gets shallow at low tide.

Location: 15 miles west of Thurso. OS map 10; grid reference 880650.

Directions: Take the A836 West from Thurso. A single track road to the right leads off to the beach before crossing the River Halladale. Follow the road to the house and drive into the "private" road, turn left and park at the bridge. A walk over the bridge and the sand dunes take leads to the beach, alternatively paddle down the river.

Break: Faces North. There are peaks all over the bay on shifting sand banks. The beach has sandbars, which work, but not at all on high tide. There are good right and lefts breaking over a boulder reef by the mouth of the Halladale. These are not too fast but is a long "fun" wave. There is also a right hand break at the river mouth during low tide. The river provides an easy paddle out watch for a strong rip after heavy rain.

Location: 20 miles west of Thurso (OS map 10; grid reference 835660).

Directions: Follow the A836 West from Thurso. After entering the Hamlet of Strathy, take the second turning off to the right by the Church. Follow the road down to the car park adjacent to the cemetery.

Break: Faces North. A long beach with sandbars long its length causing a variety of breaks. The river mouth can have a good high tide break. Works on an average north swell on a big westerly.

Location: 25 miles west of Thurso (OS map 10; grid reference 795647).

Directions: Take the A836 west from Thurso. At the end of a long hill down, the road crosses the first river that flows into the bay. There is parking by the old bridge. Follow the path down the side of the river to the beach.

Break: Faces North. A beach break which is better at high tide. A good right off the cliffs at the right hand side. Works on an average north to west swell.

Location: 25 miles west of Thurso. OS Map 12; Grid reference 714626.

Directions: A small sheltered bay at the village of Bettyhill. Follow the A836 from Thurso to Bettyhill. Beach can be seen from the road just past the Museum. Car parking is available on the right before going up the hill and past the caravan site.

Break: Faces north-west. Picks up most swells with lefts and rights off both sides of the Bay and sandbars in the middle. Lefts are better at high tide and rights at low. Tends to be more consistent than other beaches in the area.

Location: 32 miles west of Thurso OS map 10; grid reference 695620.

Beach: A long bay, just by Bettyhill

Break: Faces north. A beach break with a right hander at the mouth of the River Naver. Sandbars along its length, with a left at the westerly end of the Bay. Low to mid tide is generally best.

Further west

There are other breaks further West. These include

Balnakeil Bay

Remote beach of Sandwood Bay which works on any westerly swell and is a magnificent location but a long walk!

 All these beaches have good waves on varying conditions and finding the best place for any weather condition if all part of the "search for the perfect wave" so … GO FOR IT!

THE COUNTRY SIDE CODE

 When enjoying the surf breaks in the area please respect the way of life and countryside. In particular Guard against fire. Carelessness may cost thousands of pounds. Do not throw away glass, lighted matches or cigarettes.

Fasten all gates. A farm animal on a road may cause an accident; in a wrong field it may gorge itself to death.

Keeps dogs under control. The friendly household pet may prove a killer in the open countryside

Keep to footpaths and tracks. Even grass is a valuable crop and what looks like grass may be young wheat, oats or barley.

Avoid damaging fences. Fences, hedges and walls are there for a reason and replacing them is expensive.

Leave no litter. Take litter home after a day on the waves.

Safeguard water supplies. Take care not to pollute country streams with rubbish or waste food.

Protect the wildlife. The countryside is a community of animals, plants and trees all depending on each other for survival. Do not pick or root up floors or break off branches.

Drive carefully on country roads. A tractor or a flock of sheep, hidden by a corner can cause an accident. Many roads in the area (especially to the West) are single track any are only wide enough for one vehicle. They have special passing places. Pull into these on your left, or wait opposite a passing place on your right when you see a vehicle coming towards you, or the driver behind wants to overtake. Give way to vehicles coming uphill and finally DO NOT park in passing places.